I occasionally am the one to choose which dry valve make and model we use for our installation projects. If you're a specifying engineer/designer or on the contractor side of things, what criteria do you consider when you choose when deciding which dry valve model to use?
Obviously the calculations have to accomodate the pressure loss, but that mostly impacts size. What other factors do you consider when making the decision?
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1/6/2020 11:03:58 am
As a specifying engineer, we don’t go as far as specifying a particular brand or model, and when I was on the contracting side it varied. One company I worked for really liked the Viking DPV’s, the superintended just liked them. Another company is loyal to Reliable. Another likes the externally-resetting Tyco with the reset plunger. In the past few years I have seen in my region the move to low-pressure valves, particularly the nice Victaulic 768. They have been out long enough the fitters should be up-to-speed on setting them up. They can save on compressor size and they have bailed me out where I might have a marginal water delivery or refill times. On the other hand, a sales rep made a good case that low-pressure valves aren’t necessarily the best choice. All being nearly equal, I would go with the best relationship we had with our supplier, and more importantly what our field superintendent or fitters really felt was best for install, and working on it annually, which benefits the owner. But opinions are like belly buttons.
1/6/2020 03:38:30 pm
As DL stated, dry valves are all pretty similar among the various manufacturers. I focus on the operating pressure of the valves. On a recent project involving a parking garage that was open to the outdoors, a low pressure valve was specified and installed. The change in air temperature from day to night caused enough of a pressure drop that the accelerator on the valve caused the valve to trip.
1/7/2020 10:14:32 am
operating pressure and friction loss are the most important
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